Discover the world of caviar
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When first extracted from the egg sac, sturgeon roe is flavourless; the salting and ageing processes bring out the flavours. Stored in cold rooms, the grains are left to age for at least three months in their original tin under the caviar master’s careful watch. Much like a cellar master, they ensure the caviar reaches maturity in the right conditions, at which point, the full aromatic bouquet reveals the caviar’s true character.
Every fisherman worth their salt in the Caspian Sea dreams of one day catching a large Beluga, the Huso huso sturgeon. Also known as the Elephant Fish, it is the largest and only carnivore of the sturgeon family. This large-mouthed traveller is always on the scout for its next prey. Sometimes reaching 6m in length, it can also weigh more than 1 tonne and hold up to 200kg in caviar. A true record breaker! It is also the hardest of the sturgeon family to catch due to the fact it lives deep underwater. Native of the Danube River, Beluga farming is uncommon with only very few farms ready to wait the 15 years – at least – for the fish to produce its first roe. Just as the Beluga is quite the sizeable beast, so too is its large, creamy roe. Beluga caviar ranges from light to dark grey and is renowned for its thin membrane, delicate buttery flavours and long-lasting aftertaste.
Caviar is delicacy made of gently separated and salted sturgeon roe. The word was used for the first time in 850 A.D. and likely comes from the Turkish khavyar which means ‘fish eggs’.
To eat caviar correctly, the tin should be removed from the fridge 30 minutes
before serving, letting the individual grains warm to 10°C where they are most flavourful. Ideally, the tin is then placed on a bed of crushed ice to keep the caviar at ideal serving temperature. When it comes to eating the caviar, each of the five senses are alive: the iconic noise of the tin opening titillates the ears while the eyes devour the colour and shape of each individual grain; then, the nose takes in the delicate fragrance as a the spoon delicately scoops out a small serving, in a vertical motion so as to not break the delicate membrane of each egg. As a brief prelude, a small spoonful is placed in the palm of the hand so as to better feast the eyes on the delectable sight before finally eating up the caviar. The eggs roll from the tongue to the palette then down, slowly melting in the mouth, releasing their woody, buttery, and nutty aroma. It’s almost magical!
In the past, tins of caviar used to be wrapped in tracing-paper and tied up in string in order to soak up any excess water seepage. Attached to the string was a lead warranty seal with the caviar house’s emblem.
At the turn of the millennium, sturgeon fish were on the verge of extinction and added to the CITES list of protected species (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora, aka. the Washington Convention). Sturgeon fishing was banned outright in 2008, thus marking the end of wild caviar. Caviar producers are now turning to sturgeon farming in natural bodies of water as a means of preserving the species. Nowadays, farmed caviar accounts for the entirety of production worldwide.
Caviar is a much sought after delicacy for chefs and never ceases to fuel their imagination. For Michel star chef Kei Kobayashi, «Each time a new tin is opened, we discover a whole new taste – it’s a surprise! It is extremely rare, powerful yet delicate, with an inner beauty can be drawn out without cooking it.» Chef Eric Baffard (MOF) sees caviar as «the pinnacle of luxury cuisine, pure decadence, as each individual black pearl pops on your tongue, releasing their nutty, almond aroma.» As for three-time Michelin star laureate, Yannick Alleno, he simply dreams of «one last spoonful before I die!»
For a long time, sturgeon meat was more sought after than its roe. The word ‘caviar’ can be traced back to 850 AD, in the 9th century, and most likely comes from the Turkish khavyar, which means ‘fish eggs’. The Persians thought it was good for stamina and used it as a highly potent cure-all. However, caviar consumption really only took off in Europe and Russia as of the 16th century, with most activity centred on the Black and Caspian Seas.
In 1675, Tsar Alexis I placed caviar under an imperial monopoly; it ultimately made its way at the Russian Royal Court, where it became a much demanded delicacy of the early Tsars, synonymous with wealth and luxury. While transport difficulties during the early years of caviar production meant that only ‘pressed’ caviar was exported, the Industrial Revolution in the 19th century meant that fresh caviar could at last make it all the way to Europe. Industrially produced ice, railways, and modern preservation methods fuelled the slow but steady spread of caviar around the world. At this time, whole grain and Malossol caviar appear on the scene. Following the 1917 Russian Revolution, the French become fascinated with the country and its people. Caviar became fashionable to the point it was seen as the pinnacle of good taste. From then on, caviar would never again lose its reputation as one of the world’s most sought after delicacies.
Three of the best caviar varieties were once produced in Iran: Beluga, Osetra, and Sevruga. In the 1950’s, the Iranian fishermen were unique in the way they employed traditional open water fishing methods up and down the Caspian coastline. They set up fisheries on piles so that the eggs could be extracted as soon as possible after the sturgeon was caught. Caviar masters also had unique techniques that differentiated from the Russian style: their caviar was typically lower in salt content, thereby enhancing the natural aromas more fully. The quality of wild Iranian caviar, deemed to be the best in the world, was such that national production in 1980 made up a quarter of all Caspian Sea exports to the West.
A long time ago, in Iran, all sorts of information on caviar production was written down in large record-books: the number of sturgeon caught in a day, the total weight of harvested caviar, and the number of boîte d’origine that were filled.
Located in the heart of Paris, Kaviari is a world leader for caviar and fine cuisine. Having made a name in wild Iranian caviar, the family-owned caviar house created by Raphaël Bouchez and Jacques Nebot relies on 40 years of expertise to offer some of the finest farmed caviar available: Beluga, Gold Osetra, French Baerii, and Kristal. With each hand-selected caviar, Kaviari currently supplies the greatest Michelin-star chefs in France and abroad (Alain Ducasse, Yannick Alléno, Alain Passard, Bernard Pacaud, Guy Martin, Arnaud Lallement, Éric Pras, Christophe Bacquié...). The house also has a reputation for giving caviar a modern twist: the recently launched ‘En-K’ and ‘Caviar Box’ lines are prefect examples of how to discover caviar a little differently. Doors to its production facilities are also open to the public for those who wish to learn more and share in the house’s passion for caviar in an environment that is laid-back, plain and simple – the very essence of Kaviari.
The name given to the Parisian restaurant opened in 1985 at number 2, rue de la Bastille, by caviar connoisseur Jacques Nebot before joining Kaviari. Today, in our production house, he spruces up some old recipes with a modern edge, like his home made blinis and tasting platter.
Roe extracted from the sturgeon’s egg sac are entrusted to a caviar expert known as the ‘caviar master’. Like a master foreman, the caviar master oversees the different stages of caviar production: sorting, assessing, separating, and washing the roe. The master is also in charge of salting the grains, striking the perfect balance for that authentic caviar flavour. Like a cellar master or cheese affineur, the caviar master ensures that the caviar grain properly age and knows exactly when they ready for tinning. Needless to say, this is a job that requires expertise, virtuosity, patience, and passion.
In the 1970s, Jacques Nebot managed one of France's leading caviar houses. His role brought him into close contact with a discerning clientele, some of the greatest names in gastronomy, and, upstream, with Iranian sturgeon fishermen and caviar producers. Through these privileged relationships, he developed an exceptional understanding of caviar, its traditions, and the expertise required to produce it.
Drawing on this unique experience, Jacques Nebot chose to forge his own path. In 1981, he founded Astara — "the caviar of caviars" — a company specialising in the import, preparation, and distribution of Caspian caviar and premium seafood delicacies. Four years later, he opened his own restaurant, *Le Coin du Caviar*, near the Bastille in Paris.
In 1988, Astara was acquired by the Suez Group. Jacques Nebot's entrepreneurial vision, organisational talent, and refined approach quickly attracted the attention of Michel Pastor, the Monegasque businessman who, following his acquisition of the prestigious Hédiard maison, entrusted Jacques Nebot with its leadership. From its iconic flagship boutique on Place de la Madeleine in Paris, Hédiard entered a new era.
From 1995 onwards, Jacques Nebot dedicated himself to restoring Hédiard's international prestige, a challenge he met with remarkable success. At the same time, in 1997, he reacquired Astara from Européenne de Gastronomie, the Suez subsidiary that had purchased it nine years earlier.
The Hédiard chapter came to a close in 2007 when the company was sold to a Russian investor. Yet another ambitious project was already taking shape. In 2001, Jacques Nebot had supported the creation of Kaviari, founded by Raphaël Bouchez, whom he had recruited to Hédiard several years earlier.
A new chapter had begun — one founded on the transmission of knowledge, exceptional craftsmanship, and an unwavering pursuit of excellence.
Acipenser Gueldenstaedtii is a medium-size sturgeon with an average length and weight of 1.5-2m and 80-200kg respectively. It is easily recognisable thanks to its short, stocky head; underneath its somewhat pointy nose, a retractable snout helps it suck up plants, small fish and crustaceans to eat. It takes at least 9 years before the female first lays eggs, which are used to produce the largest range of caviar of all, including Gold Ossetra. Ossetra caviar has fairly large, evenly-sized, amber coloured grains. To the eye, the perfectly stacked eggs shine with flashed of charcoal grey and deep gold. Their creamy texture gives way to stunning nutty after notes and hints of briny sea-water.
The Acipenser persicus sturgeon is a close relative of the Acipenser gueldenstaedtii in the Osetra family and lives solely along the Iranian coastline on the Caspian Sea. Its eggs are golden-yellow, hence its uniquely flavoured caviar often being classed as Gold Osetra. The species prefers the warmer southern waters making it unique to Iran, adding to the prestige and renown of the country’s caviar.
No need to slather it on! A little bit a caviar goes a long way. For an aperitif or if it’s your first time, a mere 10g per person should suffice, however a starter with soft poached eggs or fish tartar calls for a slightly larger 20g tin. An aperitif with friends would require at least a 30g or 50g tin for 4 people. Obviously, aficionados and food lovers alike can always go above and beyond 100g for a truly exceptional event. QUANTITY Ranching
Caviar is extremely rare. To get a better understanding for how rare it truly is, global caviar production is 200 times less than that of salmon roe. Why is that? Because caviar requires time and patience. Sturgeon need to be raised and fed for more than 6 years before the females are mature enough to start producing eggs. The specific age at which this occurs is different for each species: Baerii take roughly 7 years before producing their first eggs, while Osetra take 12 years, and Beluga take 20. But that’s not all! The eggs then need to be checked to make sure they are of good enough quality, carefully extracted from the female’s egg sac, gently salted by hand so as not to alter the flavour, then left to successfully age for 3 to 6 months.
Sturgeon are fish belonging to the Acipenseridae family. Large in size, their long, sub-cylindrical bodies can reach up to 3.5m in length and weigh 500kg. The «pilgrim of the most illustrious waves», as described by Ovid in his Metamorphoses, has bony plates called scutes instead of scales, the position and number of which help determine the shape and species at hand. They can live up to 100 years of age! Such a long life can be explained by the fact that puberty, on average, ranges from 8 to 20 years for the different species. Be it anadromous or potamodromous, this migratory fish always heads upstream to spawn in fresh water. Sturgeon can be found almost all across the Northern Hemisphere where water is more temperate.
The Acipenser transmontanus (aka the White sturgeon) is the true American cowboy of sturgeon. It spends its life between the Pacific Ocean (mainly the bays around Vancouver and San Francisco) and major rivers that run along the American West Coast. It is the most farmed species in California, but can also be found in Europe, mainly Italy. Its name comes from its white scales and belly; its eggs, however, are not white – it produces Transmontanus caviar, which is more of a deep charcoal grey.
Caviar needs no trimmings. A simple spoon in wood or mother-of-pearl is all you need. For those who like more pomp and circumstance, a special caviar serving dish always makes quite an impression. The base is made of a dish that is filled with crushed ice onto which the tin of caviar is placed so as to maintain optimal freshness. The caviar can also be placed into a small, transparent bowl that is placed in the main dish. Cristal serving sets are the most popular due to the glimmer of the glass and the shine of the caviar bouncing complementing each other. Another utensil, less luxurious but quite practical: the caviar cooler. Made out of wood or stainless steel, a frozen gel pack is placed inside to keep the caviar cold as long as necessary. To choose between practicality and aesthetics is a matter of personal preference.
Caviar made with sturgeon roe is rich in protein, healthy poly-unsaturated fats, and Omega-3 – all renowned for their use in fighting heart disease. Caviar is also quite good for the skin. A wide range of cosmetic brands use caviar oil for its ability to improve skin elasticity and smoothness, like bathing in the Fountain of Youth. Caviar is also full of vitamins; in particular, vitamin D which helps the body absorb calcium and phosphates – both essential ingredients in cell renewal and bone growth. Lastly, the choline found in caviar means it is a natural ‘hangover cure-all’; a welcome side effect when dining on caviar and vodka.
Also known as the Restaurant-Car, this was a place trains like the Orient-Express or the Trans-Siberian where well-heeled guests would come to dine on caviar. Diners on the Orient Express ate mostly Iranian caviar, whereas Russian caviar was served on the Trans-Siberean, most likely due to the fact the train started in Moscow, traversed Siberia, and ended in Vladivostok. In the summer of 2016, an ‘Orient Express’ pop-up restaurant was set up in an original 1920’s restaurant-car that stopped in Cannes, Paris, and Bordeaux. The travelling restaurant was overseen by Michelin-star chef Yannick Alléno and pastry chef Yann Couvreur. The two joined forces to recreate the fine dining meals that were served on board back in the day. The menu for the memorable journey had a rather amusing amuse-bouche: Celery Delight with Salty Caviar Pearls.
Placing caviar onto the naked body of a woman and eating it straight off her bare skin… it’s a rather common fantasy, and comes from the Japanese nyotaimori – the practice of eating sushi or sashimi off a naked woman. Serving caviar in such a way would help bring the grains up to optimal eating temperature. Actor David Niven, the first James Bond, claimed to have replaced sushi for caviar when, during a sexual escapade with his partner, he «used her body as a caviar dish’. Decades later, Monica Bellucci caused quite the ruckus by posing semi-naked – her body covered with caviar – for the cover of Esquire. The photo, taken by Fabrizio Ferri in 2001, was seen around the world. He gave an interview some years later, in which he described what when on behind-the-scenes: after the photo shoot, he reportedly ate the caviar straight off the actress’ body, as did the hair dresser and assistants. Monica herself also took a few bites. To avoid any wastage, «They had a lot of fun!»
Caviar has many virtues, some of the cosmetic, which have gain international recognition ever since a famous Swiss cosmetic brand launched a line of caviar-based cosmetics in 1987. Rich in protein, vitamins, magnesium, micro-nutrients (Omega-3) and essential fatty acids, caviar really is a fountain of youth for the skin. Its active agents renew skin cells and reinforce the hydrolipidic layer of the epidermis, leaving the skinlooking firm and revitalised with its natural glow and softness. Nowadays, it is impossible to count the number of celebrities who have adopted caviar-based skin creams: Angelina Jolie, Kate Bosworth, and Victoria Beckham to name but a few.
In the past, Iranian caviar masters used a number scale to grade the colour of caviar. Superior quality caviar was labelled ‘000’ (triple zero) for light grey, ‘00’ for medium grey, and ‘0’ for dark grey.